Changbai Mountions National Park
Setting in Jilin Province, northeast China, and straddling the borders of China and Korea, Changbai Mountains National Park figures conspicuously in its wilderness of volcanic sites and intact natural ecosystems. Covering a total area of 190,781 hectares, it comprises virgin forests, peaks, mountains, lakes, streams and marshes, much of them are unsullied by human development.
A volcano-rich land, this region shook with volcanic eruptions over about 2 to 3 million years ago. The latest three mighty eruptions, the momentous events, had respectively occurred here in 1597, 1688 and 1702. When each eruption rocked this remote area, a great cloud of dust darkened the sky. The entire region trembled in the throes of titanic convulsions. A vent suddenly opened, belching flames and rocks. Volcanic fissures spewed masses of lava, and melted rocks boiled up from their depths and from many new fissures in the floor nearby. Columns of incandescent pumices leaped hundreds of meters high. Down the valleys and lowlands poured this seething mass, which covered a vast expanse of area. The inferno raged for dozens of hours, and then came into silence. Steam from buried rivers and springs in the baking substrata once had risen as far as eye could see. Lowlands had been covered with poplar, birch and spruce, and interspersed with bog. Hot magma lapped over and around living trees, turned them to torches, and left impressions of their burned-out trunks; many huge Korean pines have been found buried beneath lava in some places. A part of the landscape we see today throughout the most frequently visited areas in the park was shaped by the several times of volcanic eruptions. When things cooled off, they slowly built up the 16 huge cinder cones the newborn peaks of over 2,500 meters high, that now stand in this park. Around the volcanic cones stand the forests, that are interspersed with streams, lakes and ponds. Born of ancient volcanic ash deposits and shaped by some centuries of erosion, every peak bears a different name for its fancied resemblance to something. For instance, the Baiyun Feng Peak(White Cloud Peak) rising 2,691 meters above sea level, the highest peak in the northeastern China, is so named because it is often enveloped in white clouds. The Louming Feng Peak(Deer Crying Peak), soaring 2,603 meters to the sky, is the only peak here which is free of snow cap in winter because hot steam comes up from its foot, and its gentle back slope is cloaked with lush plants providing a good habitat for deer whose cry is heard. The Longmen Feng Peak (Dragon's Gate Peak) resembles a huge gate for dragon. The Yingzui Feng Peak (Eagle's Beak Peak) looks like eagle's beak.
No more active volcanoes occurred since then. This area is composed of typical volcanic terrain including the permanently snowcapped mountains, basalt tablelands, sloping basalt plateaus, volcanic cones, river valleys, hot springs, waterfalls and something more, forming a volcanic wonderland. Changbai means "ever-whitte", referring to the eternal snowcap ,which gave the mountains their name.
The last eruption died away in 1702, more than 280 years ago. Over the succeeding years, layer of soil formed over the rocks, where vegetation slowly reestablished itself, and the soil is deep enough to support a wide variety of trees, which have made their home here. No longer active, this permanently snowcapped volcano, which was once the cause of great destruction, now seemingly slumbers under the white mantles of the Changbai Mountains, and stands silent and serene. Rivers flow around the cinder cones. The land is spiked with new grass that grows through the cinders; ferns, mosses, trees and flowering plants created a lushness that had been starkly absent shortly after the eruptions. Out of the devastation emerged a wild and beautiful national park. Cones, crags, pumice beds and seething thermal areas recall the violent past. Blue lakes and forest trails make this area a hikers' park.
Having long been whittled down to their present form by wind and rain, these mountains are still awe-inspiring. Each craggy volcanic cone stands all in a piece, and offers a challenge. These towering peaks are of a mixture of geology and sculpture. The crests of the mountains offer unparalleled views of ridges piled upon ridges that are cloaked by thick forests. It is a delightful way to see the park if you hike along the natural paths that will get you away from the crowds. Accessible trails offer quick routes to peace and quiet. If you are ready for a bigger challenge, continue past the fall for a steeper, more rugged back slopes to the virgin forests for unspoiled grandeur.
Of all the clear waters in the park, the one that holds the most appeal for visitors is the Crater Lake.
About 2 to 3 million years ago, an early eruption built up a volcanic cone called the White Cloud Peak and left a void on it. The crust collapsed and formed a hollow that now cups the crater lake called the Heavenly Lake, which is an elliptical lake fed by rainfall and melting snow, a tranquil legacy of volcanic cataclysm. Nestling 2,194 meters above sea level and measuring 13 kilometers across, with 10 square kilometers of water area, 204 meters of average water depth, 373 meters at the deepest, it is the highest and the deepest lake in China.
Its jade-like water varies between dark blue and emerald green depending on the everchanging thickness of clouds. In summertime, it shimmers in the bright sunlight with distinctive reflections of the peaks around it. The lake area experiences a treacherous climate particularly in summertime. It is fine at this moment, but suddenly, it is shrouded by dark clouds, that bring a sudden shower at another moment. When the dark clouds disappeared and the shower is over, it reappears like a glittering blue gem.
A highlight of a trip to this park is a visit to the lake. Sitting on the summit of the White Cloud Peak, the highest peak among all the peaks here, the lake overlooks the sweeping vistas. The peaks scrape the clouds above the lake, which collects snowmelt from the serried peaks. Flashing with sunlight, the blue-green and crystal clear water of the lake twinkles atop the peaks, which are flecked with wildflowers. The water is reasonably placid most of the time, only rising fish and sudden showers ripple the water. Its mirror like water, abundant sunshine and cotton clouds sailing across the blue sky over the lake lure visitors to a cliff-girded setting where they linger to see the spectacular views.
Hemmed in by the peaks on the three sides, the lake finds its outlet, a breach of the peaks. on its northern rim, where the overflowing water forms a gauzy \\clterfall called Changbai Waterfall, that spills from the sheer precipice, roaring and spattering into a valley below, and wearing a rainbow at midday. This 68-meterhigh spectacular cascading waterfall, the park's highest waterfall, looks like a huge silver ribbon hanging in the air if watching at a distance.
A number of lakes lie throughout the park, where small boating takes place on the lakes.
A short distance away from the waterfall, your attention is arrested by some new wonders-dozens of hot springs that scatter over an area of more than 1,000 square meters. Their highest water temperature reaches 82°C, hot enough to boil eggs. More groups of hot springs can be found somewhere else in the park, providing hot baths for the local people as well as the people from various parts of J:l:1e province.
The hot waters from the hot springs festoon the rocks on its way with a riot of colors, tangerine, yellow green, dark green, brown, yellow and brown-yellow because of the difference of the heat. Wintertime sees steam from the hot springs and the fissured floors curling up into the air, and forming frost-laden trees around the hot springs when all the land is covered with snow.
This park is prolific in mineral water, which contains dozens of elements essential or beneficial to human health, some of which can prevent some sort of cancer. Soda springs bubble with naturally charged waters, the makings for free soda pops.
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